Archive for March, 2010

Behind the Lens

Posted in Uncategorized on March 30, 2010 by tellammare

Karl behind the camera

Today we’ll talk about one of Mr Lagerfeld’s biggest passions: photography. As he once said, one of the main reasons to be so passionate of photography is that it captures a moment that otherwise would be gone forever. This is intimate. But he also likes commercial photography and in fact, in 1987, it turned from a simple hobby to a real job. Beginning with a Chanel commercial, over the years he revealed to be a very talented and acclaimed photographer, working not only for his own labels but also for many other houses and magazines.

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Prêt-à-porter Revolution

Posted in Uncategorized on March 20, 2010 by tellammare

In the aftermath of the war many things were changing . The devastation of the war brought troubles even in the fashion industry. Facing things like the shortage of raw materials and their increasingly high cost, the emerging designers of the time adopted different solutions. Christian Dior, without bothering to use many metres of extremely expensive fabrics and still producing with the only help of his tailors, created the New Look, to keep the name of French couture high and glorious. Many others followed the way paved by Monsieur Dior. Other designers instead understood that Haute Couture clients were coming up with new needs. One of them was obviously Karl Lagerfeld. In a time when fine craftsmanship was only available from couture houses, he realised that Haute Couture belonged now to the past, and this is why in 1966 he became the creative director of Chloé, the first luxury prêt-à- porter fashion house, founded in Paris in 1952 by egyptian-born Gaby Aghion and his partner Jacques Lenoir. By accepting the job, he took part to the fundamental prêt-à-porter revolution which started in those years and brought dramatic changes (and improvements) in the fashion industry. His collaboration with Chloé lasted until 1983, when he left for Chanel, but then he returned for a five-year run in 1992. As we all know, Haute Couture dresses are still produced today, even though only as a prerogative of the ultra-riches of the globe and as a matter of brand image for fashion houses.

Gaby Aghion

Chloé dress, evening, 1979-1980

The Great Co-Co-Cold

Posted in Uncategorized on March 13, 2010 by tellammare

Fashion is not only a matter of getting always the latest and most bizzare outfit created by the coolest designer of the moment and wear it on the red carpet or at any other glamour occasions. Fashion is first of all a custom, a mass phenomenon involving all the social classes and linked to culture, historical and geographical variables. Thus the task of the designer is to give his personal vision throughout every collection taking inspiration from anything he finds interesting or remarkable but never forgetting the main reason clothes are for, so never getting too much out of the way, designing dresses for the museum. Nevertheless, a fashion show shouldn’t only be a mere presentation of perfetcly manufactured clothes but should be somewhat like  a theatre play where the world is shown through the designer’s eyes.

During the last fall/winter fashion week on the catwalk of Chanel at Grand Palais in Paris, there was everything of this. For his collection Kaiser Karl has chosen the freezing weather of this past winter as an inspiration and displayed it with a very spectacular show. From beginning to end everything was perfect and nothing was missing: the show started with a big panel raising from the floor and revealing a huge 30 tons melting piece of ice taken from an iceberg and directly brought there from Sweden to be placed in the middle of the set. Then some omnipresent notorious models the likes of Freja Beha Erichsen and Baptiste Giabiconi walked around the ice wearing bear-like costumes accompanied by a perfectly suitable soundtrack whose title was ironically “Theme for Great Cities”.

With such an arctic landscape fur was obviously the key feature of the collection. Nothing surprising if you know a little about his long time collaboration with a label such as Fendi, which specializes in fur, until you find it out that all the fur is fake! But the twist here is that even this time he succeeded in mixing the central ideas of the collection with the most typical Chanel trademarks. So there were bizzare furry trousers and snow boots with ice-block heels as well as tweeds into which fur was woven; you could also find tailleurs with fur-fringed embroideries matching with ice jewelry and accessories like a clutch in which the quilting of the CC classic bag had been frozen into the likeness of a refrigerator ice cube tray.

 

As a result it still remains one of the most innovative collections of this year. Well done Mr Lagerfeld!!!

Here is a short video of the show: enjoy it!

Hello Everyone!!!

Posted in Introduction on March 8, 2010 by tellammare

Hi everyone, my name is Mauro and I’m a 21 year-old student at Bocconi University in Milan.

Over the last two years people abused a little too much of the words “fashion blog”. Since some bloggers indeed started running blogs about fashion, a large amount of blogs of this sort immediately spread widely on the Internet and an equal number of people claimed to be “fashion bloggers” with little merit (or even with none).

Therefore I found it fair to specify that even though in this blog I’ll talk about fashion, I’ll never claim to be a fashion blogger, because this is not my aim. It is instead to focus on someone who immensely contributed to set the trends in the last fifty years. Analysing everything which concerns him, from his personal talent to his dramatic loss of wheight I’ll try to explain how a man who achieved so much success to be nicknamed “The Kaiser” managed to become the most recognizable and powerful designer of the world and to remain still at the tip of this controversial iceberg which is the fashion industry.

Obviously, I’m talking about Karl Lagerfeld.